(I am Robin Modlin, a friend of Ana, Isa and Andrew for almost 20 years. I was invited to go on this trip to Japan to support my friends in their endeavor to raise awareness about organ donation, transplant and cystic fibrosis. I am also mother of another friend of theirs, 28 year old, Anna, who lives with cystic fibrosis and the hope of one day having a successful lung transplant.)
Day 5
I never travel light. My whole family is this way. We always carry the kitchen sink as they say. When I get where I am going I finally know what I really need but like a good girl scout I am always prepared. It is silly to carry books that I will never read because there is just too much to do. I am not sitting here in my hotel room whiling away the hours. And of course you need snacks. You never know when you will be hungry for dried fruit, nuts, or tiger milk bars. Well the prunes do come in handy but I am here to eat Japanese food, what was I thinking? The floor of my room has become a bit of a dumping ground as I rummage through my stuff. One day perhaps I will learn, the excess is just that, excess and I will be bold to travel with a light suitcase for once.
Jumping to another subject I am so curious about a few intimate differences between Japan and the US. Some of these differences are found in the bathrooms. My lovely hotel bathroom has a toilet with a great, comfortable, heated seat and a bidet with an array of controls for special ways to cleanse after relieving one’s self. I know this is common in other countries too. Must say a bidet is nice in one’s private space but I have seen them in public bathrooms here as well. And of course there is a choice of how to go when you are out at public restrooms, either squat, or if you are lucky, sit. I do prefer to sit but the squat option would solve a pet peeve of mine. In the US so many women will not sit with their fanny where another fanny was and instead squat over a seat leaving a spray for the next unsuspecting fanny sitter woman to find. Now if we had these squatting holes in the floor like they do in Japan for the squatters in the US maybe we fanny sitters could have a dry seat to enjoy.
And one more curious thing, in some public bathrooms in Japan there is a noise maker that turns on when you are on the toilet so that anyone else in the bathroom can not hear your personal tinkle. Bodily functions apparently are an embarrassment. And yet, there in the middle of the shopping district is Condommania! Yes, I did write that. You should not hear another’s tinkle but you can go together shopping for various condoms of all kinds and etc. freely and with no shame. This is good of course, congratulations to the Japanese. But, one does sense a few contradictions. Talking this over I am told that this is due to the male dominated society. Women should have shame for their bodies and men not.
The other interesting obsession with the Japanese is with the “cute”. There are many stores filled with items about Snoopy, and Hello Kitty and Sesame Street and more. In a way I see it as a modern version of all the “cute” at the older traditional markets with the wind bells, charms and little items. It was pointed out to me that in a way there is a juvenile mind set for many Japanese women who are taught to stay like children, passive and submissive and this obsession for “cute” plays into that. It is an interesting idea and I think plays into other observations. Now that I have shared some of my base and basic cultural observations resulting from day 5, that I claim to be only mine whether highly biased or judgmental or directly the result of my American point of view, I would like to share about another beautiful part of the day.
Ana, Isa, Andrew and I went to Meiji Jingu, a shrine dedicated to the divine souls of Emperor Meiji and his consort Empress Shoken. “Meiji Jingu is a Shinto shrine. Shinto is called Japan’s ancient original religion, and it is deeply rooted in the way of Japanese life. Shinto has no founder, no holy book, and not even the concept of religious conversion, but Shinto values for example, harmony with nature and virtues such as Magokoro (sincere heart). In Shinto, some divinity is found as Kami (divine spirit), or it may be said that there is unlimited number of Kami. You can see Kami in mythology, in nature, and in human beings. From ancient times, Japanese people have felt awe and gratitude towards such Kami and dedicated shrines to many of them.”
It is a beautiful park with a gorgeous green ginko tree lane leading to the shrine. A man was sweeping the leaves from the gravel with a traditional broom of rush lifting only the fallen leaves and letting the gravel stay in its place. The rain was gentle but required our umbrellas. A sense of calm and natural beauty was a contrast to the huge concrete jungle of Tokyo. After arriving at the tall wood hewn gate entrance and noticing the water station for cleansing and preparation for prayer we entered the courtyard to see a gorgeous, full and ancient tree surrounded by a wall of hand written wooden tablets hung on hooks. We were immediately drawn to the tables seeing that they were written in many languages and carried the prayers of visitors from around the world. I took photos of many of them as they carried such sweet messages of love. We purchased tablets and wrote our own prayers hanging them with all the others. We joined with this community of travelers who all desire happiness, good health and good fortune for themselves and their loved ones.
It is these moments that we have had in the traditional and spiritual style of Japan that I feel so nurtured. Touching our hearts, sensing the spirit of the earth and our connection with others is what keeps us going on this planet, in this life and especially when we have obstacles and adversity. It is the human condition that forces us to either withdraw or reach out and be inspired. The tablets at Meiji Jingu were inspirational and touching. Another way to touch in at the shrine was to make an offering and to receive a poem from the Emperor and Empress. They composed poetry for the people out of their love and concern. You reach into a box of tightly rolled small scrolls to choose the right one for you. My poem reads:
Amidst the raging storms of life
Never flinch, o heart of man
No more than the wind-tossed pine
Deep-rooted in the rock.
-Emperor Meiji-
The interpretation of the poem is “Never allow yourself to be shaken by any storm or upheaval in your life, but stand as firm in your convictions as a huge old pine rooted in the mountainside.” This is what the day before I was telling Ana about when viewing the Buddha statues. The Buddha’s calm presence in the center to settle in so that life’s events may swirl around you but you will stay still, open and calm. This is the best way that we can survive our tragedies and difficulties.
After the lovely Meiji Jingu and a heavy dose of Tokyo consumerism we returned to prepare for a very important meeting and talk. Ana and Isa spoke poignantly and deliberately to a room full of doctors, nurses and other health professionals at a medical center about 1½ hours from our hotel. We traveled by subway, train and cab. The talk was well received and one doctor openly said it was the best, the best. I am proud of my friends and respect the courage it takes to present these controversial issues in a foreign language. They do an incredible job and must be touching minds and hearts.
Our way back to Otemachi where our hotel is was a cab ride complements of the medical center. We got to experience the Tokyo freeway at night in the rain. All that you can do in that situation is let go and be an old pine rooted in the mountainside while traveling at 60++ miles an hour past miles and miles of skyscrapers with thousands and thousands of lighted windows. I had no idea how very large Tokyo was. It is truly overwhelming and as Isa pointed out, there are no trees, few parks, no dirt for children who grow up there to play in. Nature that was so important to the Japanese and Shinto beliefs is hard to find in this city.
The evening ended with a fabulous Japanese dinner. Oh mmmmmmmmmm, so good. We sat in a “no smoking” area of the restaurant in our little tatami room and ordered sushi, and other delights that were so wonderful. The sashimi was incredible melting in the mouth. And the price was right. We ate until we were all full and it was less than $20 each. Oh, what a dinner.
Typhoon Melor has been heading our way. I have been watching the weather reports. It seems that it has changed to a tropical storm. That is good. Seems it will not hit until Thursday but this could interfere with our CF event in Sendai. I hope not.
Robin
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