Posted in: Journal On The Road, On The Road | By Robin

(I am Robin Modlin, a friend of Ana, Isa and Andrew for almost 20 years. I was invited to go on this trip to Japan to support my friends in their endeavor to raise awareness about organ donation, transplant and cystic fibrosis. I am also mother of another friend of theirs, 28 year old, Anna, who lives with cystic fibrosis and the hope of one day having a successful lung transplant.)

Day 4

Monday morning I awake again early, 5 or so. This is normal for me. I am in Tokyo and on this day I get to see more of the city. Ana promised to take me out and about and Isa was unsure on Sunday night if she would come as she was so tired.  The only event today is an onstage interview and a concert to benefit transplant awareness so the morning and early afternoon are free.

Morning coffee and salad again, but I still use the Japanese soyu dressing, not Italian. I had a nice talk with Ashley of the film crew. He is from Texas and after college ended up in Japan teaching English to college students who wished to study abroad in the US for a couple of years. He is one of the interpreters and the social media expert. You can hear him DJ on the podcasts on the web site.  Our conversation led us to sharing about Zen Buddhism in Japan and San Francisco. He told me of a Soto Zen teacher he sat with while living here whose practice is to stand still for hours and hours with a begging bowl. The money raised built a beautiful temple but he still prefers holding his sitting in his humble home next door.  Zen Buddhism has been an important gift and bridge to the west from Japan. This teacher is connected to Suzuki Roshi who wrote Zen Mind Beginners Mind, a classic for western Buddhist students.

I must say this conversation set the tone for me for the day. Isa was too tired to join us so Ana and I burst out onto the streets of Tokyo to visit the Asakusa Kannon Temple. We found our way on the Genza subway line. Now I know how to do this and feel confident I could get there again on my own, Yaaayyy.

Approaching the temple was a street of traditional Japanese trinket shops. I love the tinkling sounds, the colors, the miniatures, the fans, the good luck kitties, the little bags, the bells, the chopsticks, the rice crackers, the smell of fresh cooked waffles with red bean pastries everywhere. We were so excited to be there together. My sweet, sweet friend Ana told me this was her dream to go to Japan with me one day. We celebrated that we have been friends for almost 20 years now.  What a wonderful place to be. We missed Isa and hoped that she was resting and restoring her energy.

Approaching the temple I became overwhelmed with the history and vibration of this sacred Buddhist place of prayer.  Over the centuries Senso-ji has burned to the ground, and parts had been bombed and destroyed during world war II only to be rebuilt and remain a center of culture and worship in Tokyo since 645. The temple celebrates the worship of Bodhisattva Kannon, the deity of mercy sent to relieve human misery on earth. This bodhisattva of compassion is well known in other sects of Buddhism around the world as Kuan Yin and forms of Tara.

From the flier about the temple, “Faith in the Bodhisattva Kannon, which has supported Senso-ji and drawn many people to this temple, consists of opening one’s heart and living by the merciful spirit of Bodhisattva Kannon and at the same time showing mercy to others in daily life. We hope that visitors to Senso-ji will join their hands in prayer, receive the merciful spirit of the Bodhisattva Kannon into their hears and pray that they can bestow that mercy upon others.”

The sprit of this intention was clear with out reading about it. I felt the warmth and compassion embrace me the moment I smelled the musky smoke of the incense and watched as people placed lit stick bundles in the cauldron to mark this place, allowing the smoke to cleanse them of impurities and negativity. I felt deeply, deeply connected with emotion to this place as it sent me into my Buddhist study and faith that has been with me my whole adult life. I resonate with these teaching to my core and deep within my heart. Warm tears and incense smoke touched my cheeks as I was overwhelmed with the feeling of privilege to be in such a place of compassion and mercy.

Inside the temple Ana and I lit and placed candles dedicating this trip to Japan, the film and the work about transplant awareness to benefit all beings everywhere ending suffering.  With a small offering, I also shook the box of sticks, an ancient way to receive a fortune. My stick led me to number 42: “When spring comes, Katsura tree flowers are in full bloom, smelling so well. Your fortune will open wide when your season comes.  If you get the chance, open, you will get fame and honor, climbing the way to top of the sky.  Also you meet a great person with honor who helps you.  The moon in the dark sky will get bright again, in the clear sky, you can meet the fortune soon. ‘Your request will be granted. The patient gets well soon. ‘” What more can I say?

Lunch was in a very small and traditional restaurant. (Please excuse me, I try to remember how to spell the Japanese words for foods but by the time I am at the computer it is a jumble.) Ana was so excited to share this with me, she and Isa ate this style so many times when they lived in Japan in the 90’s. In the middle of the table was a hot griddle. We were given a piece of pork, bacon, to cook and then chop into pieces adding it to a mixture of green onions, cabbage and batter. Next we poured the mix upon the griddle. A large Japanese pancake sizzled in front of us. Ana’s grin was ear to ear as the aroma excited our bellies. Finally flipped on both sides it was delicious with sauces available on the side of the table. Must say I was stuffed as we had had a fresh red bean pastry just before we arrived at the restaurant. I got a little shopping done. With more to do another day and we headed for the subway back to join the others, change our clothes and attend another event.

I will briefly tell you about the final event of the day. It is difficult to tell much as I really, really do not understand Japanese. Yes, my heart is open but my ears, well, they are not catching onto much. The event was not as well attended as was hoped and it was thought that it being a Monday evening and rainy at that, was a reason. The interview went well and Andrew and I learned afterward about some of the tings that were said. Most importantly was the contrast between cultures such as that less than 10% of Japanese people who can, donate organs for transplant in comparison to California where over 70% do. The interviewers were amazed at this statistic. We are in a transplant community here but what is significantly different is that all the people we have met have either had a living donor transplant of a kidney, lobe of a lung or section of a liver or had to go out of the country to receive a cadaver organ. It is this situation that Ana and Isa want to address in this visit. They would not be here if it was not for the generous gift of life following the tragic death of someone in the US.

A concert presented by a sweet woman who donates her time to charity events followed the interview. I must say this was a cultural challenge for both Andrew and me. Her dress was quite flamboyant with gold lamae shawl, baret style hat and drooping brown fabric rose pinned on just so. She spoke in very fast Japanese for a long time in-between songs but sang in English starting with We Are the World and love for Michael Jackson. Before beginning she signaled to her own hand held videographer to come on stage filming her close-up moving around the grand piano like a star struck groupie eager to capture each word and stylized sound. He stood in front of the audience so that she could not be seen and all we saw was the back of his pants, jacket and hatted head. Eventually an older Japanese gentleman photographer probably from the press tried to discretely climb the stairs hitting the videographer’s legs with a motion to get out of the way. The guy got the point and finally stepped aside. Must say I was loosing it. Andrew and I could not believe the comedy of the situation. We looked over at Marc who was now slumped in his seat with disbelief. What a show!!!!

The day ended with Andrew famished. Naomi took us to a near by bar and restaurant. I had udon with tempura and sake. Definitely needed a little sake after that event. Andrew and I laughed a lot and realized from Ana and Isa’s and Naomi’s reaction this was not such an unusual performance. We could only shake our heads and look at each other with disbelief.  Tomorrow is another day and we are meeting at 9:25 AM for sightseeing and shopping…………

Robin